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Tikin Xic (Yucatán Achiote Grilled Fish)

The Mayan beach classic from the Yucatán: a whole butterflied fish rubbed with achiote and sour orange, wrapped in banana leaves, and grilled over the fire. Serve with tortillas, pickled red onions and habanero salsa.
Notes
Starter recipe; adjust to taste. No grill? Bake wrapped in the leaves at 400°F for 25–30 minutes.
RECIPE CARD
Tikin Xic (Yucatán Achiote Grilled Fish)
Yield: 4 servings | Time: 45 minutes, plus 30 minutes marinating
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Ingredients
Achiote marinade
- 3.5 oz Achiote paste (recado rojo)
- ½ cup Sour orange juice (or ¼ cup orange juice + ¼ cup lime juice)
- 4 cloves Garlic
- 1 tsp Dried Mexican oregano
- ½ tsp Ground cumin
- ½ tsp Black pepper
- 1 tsp Kosher salt
- 2 Tbsp Olive oil
Fish
- 1 Whole snapper or grouper (3–4 lb), butterflied, or 2 lb thick skin-on fillets
- Banana leaves, thawed and wiped
- 1 Tomato, sliced
- ½ White onion, sliced
- 1 Green bell pepper, sliced
- 1 Habanero, thinly sliced (optional)
To serve
- Warm corn tortillas
- Pickled red onions
- Habanero salsa
- Lime wedges, cilantro, rice and black beans
Instructions
- Blend the achiote paste, sour orange, garlic, oregano, cumin, pepper, salt and oil until smooth.
- Score the flesh of the fish and rub the marinade all over. Marinate 30 minutes to 2 hours in the refrigerator.
- Pass the banana leaves briefly over a flame or hot grill to soften them.
- Lay the fish skin-side down on the leaves and top with tomato, onion, bell pepper and habanero. Fold the leaves over (or leave open in a fish basket).
- Grill over medium-high heat 10–15 minutes per side, until the fish flakes easily and reaches 140°F.
- Open the leaves at the table and serve with tortillas, pickled onions, salsa and lime.
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